Sunscreen ingredients
Common sunscreen ingredients retinyl palmitate (vitamin A) and oxybenzone have been targeted regarding unfounded health concerns.
Retinyl Palmitate
What is it?
Retinyl palmitate (a form of vitamin A, also called ‘retinol’) is used in some sunscreen products to condition and moisturise the skin.
Vitamin A occurs naturally in animal fats, some plants and foods, and in vitamin supplements. It is an essential nutrient. Vitamin A in human skin is converted to and stored as retinyl palmitate.[1]
What’s the myth?
US-based activist organisation the Environmental Working Group (EWG) has waged an ongoing campaign against the use of retinyl palmitate in cosmetic and personal care products, and particularly in sunscreens.
This is based on their analysis of an animal study conducted by the USA’s National Toxicology Program (NTP)[2], from which the EWG concluded that retinyl palmitate is photocarcinogenic – i.e. that creams containing this ingredient increase carcinogenic effect of ultraviolet radiation (UV), and therefore increase the risk of skin cancer.
FACT: The weight of evidence supports the safety of retinyl palmitate in cosmetic and personal care products.
In 2010 a review was conducted in response to the EWG’s claims. This review considered all the available data from in vitro, animal and human studies and concluded that, “there is no evidence that the inclusion of retinyl palmitate in sunscreens is photocarcinogenic in humans”.[1]
Indeed, the authors emphasise that retinyl palmitate-containing treatments have been prescribed for various skin conditions for over 40 years. In this time, millions of patients have used these products and there has been no reported increase in the incidence of photocarcinogenesis.
There have been a number of criticisms of the NTP study, on which the claims about retinyl palmitate appear to be based.1,[3] These include:
Retinyl palmitate has been reviewed three times by the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel and found to be safe. It is approved by the Australian TGA as an ‘active’ ingredient,[4] and is approved as a food additive by the FDA.
Oxybenzone
Oxybenzone (also known as benzophenone) is a UV filter that is used in some sunscreens. Specifically, it provides skin protection from UVA radiation.
UV filters are the active ingredients that provide the sun protection properties of sunscreen products. While small amounts of ultraviolet radiation (UV) from the sun are essential for the production of vitamin D, prolonged or over-exposure to UV can result in short- and long-term health effects. These range from sunburn, to premature skin ageing, to skin cancer. Australia has the highest skin cancer rate in the world.
Sunscreens work either by absorbing or reflecting UV. Oxybenzone is a UV absorber, or ‘organic filter’, which absorbs UV light and converts it to a lower energy form (this type are often called ‘chemical’ sunscreens). ‘Inorganic filters’ (or ‘mineral filters’) work by scattering and reflecting UV light. One or both types may be used in a product, since different UV filters are effective against different UV wavelengths.
Oxybenzone has been targeted by activist suggestions that it may disrupt the human endocrine system. i.e. interfere with normal hormone function. The basis for this campaign appears to be a 2008 finding by the US Centres for Disease Control (CDC)[5] that 97% of Americans have oxybenzone in their urine.
FACT: The presence of a substance in body fluid doesn’t mean it causes harm to the body
Every day we are exposed to many chemical substances, from both natural and man-made sources. This has been the case for thousands of years.
Our bodies are equipped to eliminate many things that have the potential to cause harm. The main ways in which our body does this is by metabolising the substance in the liver or kidneys, and excreting it from the body – primarily via urine or faeces.
So, just because a substance is found in the urine doesn’t mean that it has any adverse health effect on the body. The authors of the 2008 CDC study do not make any link between the widespread presence of oxybenzone in the population, or the levels of oxybenzone found, and increased risk of adverse health effects.
FACT: The health effects of oxybenzone have been extensively studied
The low toxicity of oxybenzone is well established. This ingredient is approved by Australia’s Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) as a safe and effective sunscreen ingredient, as is the case with other major international regulators such as the US Food and Drug Administration, the European Commission and Health Canada.
In its latest Opinions published in December 2008, the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that, “the use of benzophenone-3 [oxybenzone] as a UV-filter up to 6% in cosmetic sunscreen products and up to 0.5% in all types of cosmetic products to protect the formulation does not pose a risk to the health of the consumer, apart from its contact allergenic and photoallergenic potential”.[6]
Human exposure to oxybenzone “has not been associated with adverse health effects”.[5] Headlines such as “Americans Carry Body Burden of Toxic Sunscreen Chemical”[7], or allegations that the regulator “has failed miserably in its duty to protect the public from toxic chemicals like oxybenzone in personal care products”6 are wholly without foundation and are nothing more than alarmist, scare-mongering tactics by anti-chemical lobby groups.
The bottom line? The weight of evidence supports the safety of sunscreen ingredients retinyl palmitate and oxybenzone as used in sunscreens and other skin care products.
Skin cancer authorities continue to recommend sunscreen use as part of your sun protection regimen.
Sources
[1] Wang, S. Q., Dusza, S. W. and Lim, H. W. 2010, “Safety of retinyl palmitate in sunscreens: A critical analysis”, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Vol. 63(5), pages 903-906
[2] National Toxicology Program, Photocarcinogenesis Studies of Retinoic Acid and Retinyl Palmitate. http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/?objectid=AC4AD14D-F1F6-975E-7834500D3DE5CEF0
[3] Personal Care Products Council 2011, Statement on National Toxicology Program Ruling on the Safety of Retinyl Palmitate
[4] Therapeutic Goods Administration, 2007, “Substances that may be used in Listed medicines in Australia” https://www.tga.gov.au/publication/substances-may-be-used-listed-medicines-australia
[5] Calafat A. M., Wong L.-Y., Ye X., Reigy J. A. and Needham L. L. 2008, “Concentrations of the Sunscreen Agent Benzophenone-3 in Residents of the United States: National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey 2003-2004”, Environmental Health Perspectives, Vol. 116 (7), pages 893-89
[6] Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) OPINION ON Benzophenone-3, COLIPA n° 38. http://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/04_sccp/docs/sccp_o_159.pdf
[7] Environmental Working Group 2008, “CDC: Americans Carry Body Burden of Toxic Sunscreen Chemical”
Retinyl Palmitate
What is it?
Retinyl palmitate (a form of vitamin A, also called ‘retinol’) is used in some sunscreen products to condition and moisturise the skin.
Vitamin A occurs naturally in animal fats, some plants and foods, and in vitamin supplements. It is an essential nutrient. Vitamin A in human skin is converted to and stored as retinyl palmitate.[1]
What’s the myth?
US-based activist organisation the Environmental Working Group (EWG) has waged an ongoing campaign against the use of retinyl palmitate in cosmetic and personal care products, and particularly in sunscreens.
This is based on their analysis of an animal study conducted by the USA’s National Toxicology Program (NTP)[2], from which the EWG concluded that retinyl palmitate is photocarcinogenic – i.e. that creams containing this ingredient increase carcinogenic effect of ultraviolet radiation (UV), and therefore increase the risk of skin cancer.
FACT: The weight of evidence supports the safety of retinyl palmitate in cosmetic and personal care products.
In 2010 a review was conducted in response to the EWG’s claims. This review considered all the available data from in vitro, animal and human studies and concluded that, “there is no evidence that the inclusion of retinyl palmitate in sunscreens is photocarcinogenic in humans”.[1]
Indeed, the authors emphasise that retinyl palmitate-containing treatments have been prescribed for various skin conditions for over 40 years. In this time, millions of patients have used these products and there has been no reported increase in the incidence of photocarcinogenesis.
There have been a number of criticisms of the NTP study, on which the claims about retinyl palmitate appear to be based.1,[3] These include:
- the findings were not published in the peer-reviewed literature
- the mice used in the study are bred to be susceptible to skin cancer development after UV exposure
- only one low-dose UV/retinyl palmitate experiment showed a statistically significant increase in skin cancer formation whereas higher dose UV/retinyl palmitate experiments did not
- increases in adverse effect of UV were also observed when the control cream, which did not contain retinyl palmitate, was used
- mouse skin is much thinner than human skin, so results are not directly comparable
Retinyl palmitate has been reviewed three times by the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel and found to be safe. It is approved by the Australian TGA as an ‘active’ ingredient,[4] and is approved as a food additive by the FDA.
Oxybenzone
Oxybenzone (also known as benzophenone) is a UV filter that is used in some sunscreens. Specifically, it provides skin protection from UVA radiation.
UV filters are the active ingredients that provide the sun protection properties of sunscreen products. While small amounts of ultraviolet radiation (UV) from the sun are essential for the production of vitamin D, prolonged or over-exposure to UV can result in short- and long-term health effects. These range from sunburn, to premature skin ageing, to skin cancer. Australia has the highest skin cancer rate in the world.
Sunscreens work either by absorbing or reflecting UV. Oxybenzone is a UV absorber, or ‘organic filter’, which absorbs UV light and converts it to a lower energy form (this type are often called ‘chemical’ sunscreens). ‘Inorganic filters’ (or ‘mineral filters’) work by scattering and reflecting UV light. One or both types may be used in a product, since different UV filters are effective against different UV wavelengths.
Oxybenzone has been targeted by activist suggestions that it may disrupt the human endocrine system. i.e. interfere with normal hormone function. The basis for this campaign appears to be a 2008 finding by the US Centres for Disease Control (CDC)[5] that 97% of Americans have oxybenzone in their urine.
FACT: The presence of a substance in body fluid doesn’t mean it causes harm to the body
Every day we are exposed to many chemical substances, from both natural and man-made sources. This has been the case for thousands of years.
Our bodies are equipped to eliminate many things that have the potential to cause harm. The main ways in which our body does this is by metabolising the substance in the liver or kidneys, and excreting it from the body – primarily via urine or faeces.
So, just because a substance is found in the urine doesn’t mean that it has any adverse health effect on the body. The authors of the 2008 CDC study do not make any link between the widespread presence of oxybenzone in the population, or the levels of oxybenzone found, and increased risk of adverse health effects.
FACT: The health effects of oxybenzone have been extensively studied
The low toxicity of oxybenzone is well established. This ingredient is approved by Australia’s Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) as a safe and effective sunscreen ingredient, as is the case with other major international regulators such as the US Food and Drug Administration, the European Commission and Health Canada.
In its latest Opinions published in December 2008, the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that, “the use of benzophenone-3 [oxybenzone] as a UV-filter up to 6% in cosmetic sunscreen products and up to 0.5% in all types of cosmetic products to protect the formulation does not pose a risk to the health of the consumer, apart from its contact allergenic and photoallergenic potential”.[6]
Human exposure to oxybenzone “has not been associated with adverse health effects”.[5] Headlines such as “Americans Carry Body Burden of Toxic Sunscreen Chemical”[7], or allegations that the regulator “has failed miserably in its duty to protect the public from toxic chemicals like oxybenzone in personal care products”6 are wholly without foundation and are nothing more than alarmist, scare-mongering tactics by anti-chemical lobby groups.
The bottom line? The weight of evidence supports the safety of sunscreen ingredients retinyl palmitate and oxybenzone as used in sunscreens and other skin care products.
Skin cancer authorities continue to recommend sunscreen use as part of your sun protection regimen.
Sources
[1] Wang, S. Q., Dusza, S. W. and Lim, H. W. 2010, “Safety of retinyl palmitate in sunscreens: A critical analysis”, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Vol. 63(5), pages 903-906
[2] National Toxicology Program, Photocarcinogenesis Studies of Retinoic Acid and Retinyl Palmitate. http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/?objectid=AC4AD14D-F1F6-975E-7834500D3DE5CEF0
[3] Personal Care Products Council 2011, Statement on National Toxicology Program Ruling on the Safety of Retinyl Palmitate
[4] Therapeutic Goods Administration, 2007, “Substances that may be used in Listed medicines in Australia” https://www.tga.gov.au/publication/substances-may-be-used-listed-medicines-australia
[5] Calafat A. M., Wong L.-Y., Ye X., Reigy J. A. and Needham L. L. 2008, “Concentrations of the Sunscreen Agent Benzophenone-3 in Residents of the United States: National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey 2003-2004”, Environmental Health Perspectives, Vol. 116 (7), pages 893-89
[6] Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) OPINION ON Benzophenone-3, COLIPA n° 38. http://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/04_sccp/docs/sccp_o_159.pdf
[7] Environmental Working Group 2008, “CDC: Americans Carry Body Burden of Toxic Sunscreen Chemical”